The CM6-generation Accord with Honda’s 3.0-liter J30A4 V6 is best understood as a “daily driver plus” setup: quiet, smooth, and quick enough to feel effortless, without the complexity of turbocharging or hybrid hardware. The J30’s strength is its broad mid-range pull and refined character—useful when merging, passing, or carrying passengers—while the chassis aims for stable highway manners over sharp-edged sportiness. Ownership tends to be rewarding when the basics are respected: correct fluids, consistent cooling-system care, and a strict timing-belt routine. The main long-term risk is not the engine itself, but how the V6 automatic transmission was serviced (or ignored) over the years. If you buy smart and maintain it on schedule, this is one of the more comfortable ways to get reliable V6 power in an early-2000s midsize sedan.
Owner Snapshot
- Smooth V6 torque and low cabin fatigue make it an easy long-distance car.
- Parts availability and repair knowledge are strong in most markets.
- Timing belt service is non-negotiable; skipping it can turn a good engine into an expensive problem.
- Plan on automatic transmission fluid drain-and-fill every 30,000–50,000 miles (48,000–80,000 km), depending on use.
- Cooling system health matters; address small leaks early to avoid overheating damage.
Contents and shortcuts
- CM6 V6 ownership profile
- J30A4 specs and capacities
- Equipment lines and safety kit
- Reliability map and known faults
- Service roadmap and buying checks
- Behind the wheel and real economy
- CM6 against its peers
CM6 V6 ownership profile
Honda’s CM6 Accord with the J30A4 3.0 V6 is the “comfort and torque” branch of the lineup. The engine’s biggest advantage is how it makes its power: it doesn’t need high rpm to feel strong, so normal driving stays calm and quiet, with quick acceleration available on demand. In practice, that means fewer wide-open throttle events, fewer downshifts for hills, and less strain when the car is loaded—small details that add up for a daily driver.
Where this variant differs from four-cylinder Accords is heat and load management. The V6 creates more under-hood heat, and the transmission sees higher torque more often. That’s why the best examples are the ones with boring paperwork: regular oil changes, documented coolant service, and repeated transmission fluid drain-and-fills. A CM6 that “drives fine” today can still be a risky purchase if the transmission has never been serviced or if it shows signs of delayed engagement, flare between gears, or shudder at light throttle.
Advantages that show up over time:
- Refinement per dollar: The J30A4 is naturally balanced and tends to age gracefully when maintained.
- Good structural basics: The platform is designed around stable, predictable handling rather than edgy responses.
- Repair ecosystem: Independent shops know these cars well, and most wear parts are easy to source.
The trade-offs are real, but manageable:
- Higher operating costs than the 2.4: More spark plugs, more coolant volume, and typically higher tire and brake consumption because the car is heavier.
- Transmission sensitivity: Fluid condition matters more than it does on many manuals or simpler automatics.
- Safety technology by era: You get solid passive safety for its time, but not modern driver-assist features like AEB (automatic emergency braking).
If your goal is a comfortable commuter with strong passing power and a simple ownership story, the CM6 V6 is at its best when treated like a “maintenance-first” car rather than a “run it until it breaks” appliance.
J30A4 specs and capacities
Below are practical specifications for the 2002–2005 Accord CM6 with the 3.0-liter J30A4. Exact figures can vary by market, body style (sedan vs coupe), and transmission, so use this as a decision guide—then verify by VIN and service documentation.
Engine and performance
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Code | J30A4 |
| Layout | V6, aluminum block and heads (typical Honda J-series construction) |
| Valvetrain | SOHC i-VTEC, 24 valves (4 valves/cyl) |
| Displacement | 3.0 L (≈ 2997 cc) |
| Bore × stroke | 86.0 × 86.0 mm (3.39 × 3.39 in) |
| Induction | Naturally aspirated |
| Fuel system | Multi-port fuel injection (MPFI) |
| Compression ratio | ~10.0:1 (varies slightly by calibration/market) |
| Max power | 240 hp (179 kW) @ ~6,250 rpm |
| Max torque | 286 Nm (212 lb-ft) @ ~5,000 rpm |
| Timing drive | Timing belt |
| Rated efficiency (typical) | ~11.2 L/100 km city (21 mpg US) / ~7.6–7.8 L/100 km hwy (30–31 mpg US) |
| Real-world highway @ 120 km/h (75 mph) | ~8.4–9.4 L/100 km (25–28 mpg US; 30–34 mpg UK) |
Transmission and driveline
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Drive type | FWD |
| Automatic option | 5-speed automatic (varies by market and year) |
| Manual option | Some markets/body styles offered a manual; confirm locally |
| Typical 5AT ratios (example) | 1st 2.697 / 2nd 1.606 / 3rd 1.071 / 4th 0.760 / 5th 0.556 / Rev 1.888 |
| Final drive (typical) | ~4.3–4.4 (varies by year/trim) |
Chassis and dimensions
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Suspension (front/rear) | MacPherson strut / multi-link (market dependent) |
| Steering | Rack-and-pinion, power assisted |
| Brakes (typical) | 4-wheel discs; ABS standard/near-standard depending on market |
| Wheels/tires (common) | 205/60 R16 or 215/60 R16 (trim dependent) |
| Length | ~4,765–4,815 mm (187.6–189.6 in), body dependent |
| Width | ~1,815 mm (71.5 in) |
| Height | ~1,415–1,450 mm (55.7–57.1 in) |
| Wheelbase | ~2,670–2,740 mm (105.1–107.9 in), body dependent |
| Turning circle | ~11.0–11.4 m (36–37 ft), configuration dependent |
| Curb weight | ~1,470–1,560 kg (3,240–3,440 lb), trim and body dependent |
| Fuel tank | ~65 L (17.1 US gal / 14.2 UK gal) |
Performance and capability
| Item | Typical result (stock, healthy drivetrain) |
|---|---|
| 0–100 km/h (0–62 mph) | ~6.8–7.5 s |
| Passing (80–120 km/h) | Strong for class; varies by gearing and AT condition |
| Top speed | ~210 km/h (130 mph) limited/drag-limited (market dependent) |
| Braking 100–0 km/h | ~38–42 m (setup dependent) |
Fluids, service capacities, and key torques
| Item | Specification (verify by VIN) |
|---|---|
| Engine oil | 5W-20 (common Honda spec for the era); ~4.3 L (4.5 US qt) with filter |
| Coolant | Honda-type long-life coolant; total and drain/refill volumes vary—use the service manual procedure |
| Transmission fluid | Honda ATF (era-specific); drain/refill is typically much less than total capacity—repeat services matter |
| A/C refrigerant | R-134a; charge varies by body style and condenser type |
| Lug nuts | ~108 Nm (80 lb-ft) typical Honda passenger-car spec |
Electrical
| Item | Typical specification |
|---|---|
| 12V battery | Group size and CCA vary by market; test under load, don’t guess |
| Spark plugs | Iridium type common; confirm heat range and gap by VIN/calibration |
Safety and driver assistance
| Item | Notes |
|---|---|
| Airbags | Front airbags standard; side/curtain coverage depends on trim/year/market |
| Child seats | LATCH/ISOFIX anchors typically provided; confirm rear seating configuration |
| ABS and stability | ABS common; stability control availability varies and may be limited in early years |
| Modern ADAS | AEB/ACC/lane-keep generally not present in this era |
Equipment lines and safety kit
Trim naming differs by region, but CM6 V6 models tend to cluster into two buyer-relevant groups: a comfort-focused “well equipped” version and a more premium version with added interior features. When you’re shopping, the fastest way to identify what matters is to focus on functional differences (brakes, wheels, airbags, traction features, and lighting), not only leather vs cloth.
Trims and options that change ownership
Look for these items because they affect long-term cost, drivability, or repair complexity:
- Side and curtain airbags: If fitted, they improve occupant protection, but also add age-related concerns (sensor faults, seat-mount wiring, and recall history depending on market).
- Wheel and tire package: Larger wheels can sharpen steering response but raise tire cost and make the ride busier on rough pavement.
- Audio and infotainment tier: Premium systems can be great, but replacement head units, amplifiers, and door speakers become more expensive with age.
- Climate control type: Automatic climate units add convenience, but blend-door actuators and control modules can fail on older cars.
Year-to-year changes in many markets are subtle. The biggest practical differences often come from running updates to electronics, seat/airbag configurations, and minor calibration revisions. Because of that, build dates and VIN equipment codes can matter more than the model year on the registration.
Safety ratings and what they really mean
Safety scores from this era depend heavily on test type and configuration. A car can perform well in a frontal offset test and still be only average in side impact without optional side airbags. When you review ratings, confirm:
- Body style tested: sedan vs coupe can differ.
- Airbag configuration: “with optional side airbags” can change results.
- Test version: protocols evolved quickly through the early 2000s.
For real-world buying, the takeaway is straightforward: if two cars are otherwise equal, prioritize the one with documented side and curtain airbags (where available), good tires, and properly maintained brakes. Those factors influence real-world crash outcomes and avoidance more than minor trim luxuries.
Driver assistance in context
Do not expect modern active safety on a 2002–2005 Accord. You typically get ABS and possibly traction control, but advanced braking and lane support systems arrived much later. That matters because it shifts responsibility back to basics: visibility, tires, and brake performance. If headlights are hazy, tires are mismatched, or the brake pedal feels inconsistent, fix those first—those improvements often deliver more safety benefit than chasing optional features.
Reliability map and known faults
The J30A4 itself is generally durable, but CM6 ownership reliability is dominated by three themes: timing-belt discipline, cooling-system health, and transmission condition. Below is a practical “what fails and when” map, grouped by how often it happens and how painful it is to fix.
Common and usually low-to-medium cost
- Engine mounts (common, medium): Symptoms include vibration at idle in Drive, clunks on throttle transitions, and a harsh “thump” when shifting from Park to Drive. Remedy is mount replacement; use quality parts because cheap mounts can feel worse than worn OEM ones.
- Oil seepage (common, low): Valve cover gaskets and VTEC-related seals can seep. Watch for oil smell on hot surfaces and wetness around the rear bank.
- Power steering leaks (common, low): Many Hondas of this era weep at the pump O-ring or hose connections. Small leaks are easy; ignored leaks can ruin the pump and contaminate belts.
- Cooling system aging (common, medium): Radiator end tanks, hoses, and caps age out. A minor leak can turn into overheating if it drops coolant level unnoticed.
Occasional but higher impact
- Automatic transmission wear (occasional, high): Warning signs include delayed engagement when shifting into Drive, flare between gears, shudder under light throttle, or harsh shifts when hot. Root causes range from worn clutch packs to solenoid issues or heat damage from neglected fluid. A fluid service may improve shift quality if caught early, but it is not a cure for mechanical wear.
- Coil and misfire issues (occasional, medium): A failing coil or plug shows up as a flashing MIL/rough running under load. Remedy is straightforward, but repeated misfire can damage the catalytic converters.
- Starter and alternator aging (occasional, medium): Heat and age wear them out. Intermittent no-starts (single click) or low charging voltage are typical clues.
Rare but expensive
- Overheat damage (rare, very high): A single severe overheat can warp heads or compromise head gaskets. The key prevention is simple: don’t ignore coolant smell, steam, or a temperature needle that moves.
- Timing belt failure (rare if maintained, very high): This is the avoidable catastrophe. If belt history is unknown, assume it is due and budget for it immediately.
Recalls, TSBs, and service actions
On early-2000s Hondas, safety-related recalls (especially airbag-related campaigns in many markets) are common topics. Always verify completion using an official VIN check and dealer records. Even a “clean” car can be missing key recall work if it moved across regions or owners.
Service roadmap and buying checks
A CM6 V6 can be a dependable long-term car, but only if your maintenance plan is structured. The goal is to control heat, fluids, and wear items before they become failures.
Practical maintenance schedule
Use this as a conservative baseline for mixed driving:
- Engine oil and filter: every 5,000–7,500 miles (8,000–12,000 km) or 6–12 months. Short trips and hot climates justify the shorter interval.
- Automatic transmission fluid (AT): drain-and-fill every 30,000–50,000 miles (48,000–80,000 km). If fluid is dark or shifting is inconsistent, do multiple drain-and-fills spaced by short driving intervals rather than one aggressive flush.
- Coolant: replace about every 5 years / 60,000 miles (96,000 km), then every 3 years / 30,000 miles (48,000 km) unless your official manual differs.
- Brake fluid: every 3 years regardless of mileage (moisture is the enemy).
- Spark plugs (iridium, typical): around 100,000 miles (160,000 km), sooner if misfire occurs.
- Air filters: engine and cabin filters every 15,000–30,000 miles (24,000–48,000 km), depending on dust and pollen.
- Timing belt service: typically around 105,000 miles (169,000 km) or 7 years (verify local interval). Replace belt, tensioner, and idlers; many owners also replace the water pump during the same service.
Buyer’s guide: what to inspect first
Before you negotiate, prioritize checks that reveal expensive problems:
- Transmission behavior hot and cold: Drive it long enough to fully warm up, then test smooth light-throttle shifts and kickdown response.
- Cooling system integrity: Look for dried coolant residue, low reservoir level, soft or swollen hoses, and signs of recent “quick fixes.”
- Timing belt proof: Ask for dated receipts. If the seller can’t prove it, price the car as if it needs the job now.
- Suspension wear: Listen for clunks over bumps and check for uneven tire wear (alignment and bushing condition).
- Brake feel: Pulsation suggests warped rotors; a long pedal can indicate fluid moisture or worn components.
- Electrical consistency: Verify windows, locks, HVAC modes, and charging voltage under load.
Long-term durability outlook
If the transmission is healthy, the timing belt is kept current, and fluids are correct, these cars can run for many years with predictable, manageable repairs. The “good ones” are not the lowest-mileage examples—they’re the ones with repeat service records and owners who treated the transmission and cooling system as routine maintenance, not afterthoughts.
Behind the wheel and real economy
The CM6 V6 driving experience is defined by smoothness. At city speeds it feels relaxed because the engine rarely needs to rev to move the car, and on highways it tracks straight with minimal steering correction. That calm character is the point: it’s less about sharp turn-in and more about keeping the cabin settled over long distances.
Ride, handling, and NVH
Expect a compliant ride with controlled body motion, especially on stock wheel sizes and quality tires. The steering is typically light to moderate in effort and prioritizes predictability over rich feedback. In corners, the front end is secure, but heavy throttle mid-corner can push the car wide—classic FWD behavior. Braking feel is usually firm and easy to modulate when the system is healthy; inconsistent pedal feel often points to neglected brake fluid or worn front suspension components affecting stability under load.
Noise levels are generally good for the era. Wind and tire noise dominate on the highway, while engine noise stays subdued until high rpm. If a V6 Accord is unusually loud, check for exhaust leaks, failing engine mounts, or cheap tires.
Powertrain character and transmission behavior
The J30A4 delivers strong passing power. Throttle response is typically clean, and the engine pulls confidently through the mid-range. The automatic transmission should shift smoothly; harsh engagement, gear hunting, or shudder under light throttle are red flags. If the car feels “hesitant,” it may be a maintenance issue (old ATF) or early wear. A well-serviced transmission is the difference between a refined daily driver and a stressful ownership story.
Real-world fuel economy
Real-world results depend heavily on speed and traffic:
- City-heavy driving: often around 11.5–13.0 L/100 km (18–20 mpg US; 22–24 mpg UK).
- Highway cruising (60–75 mph / 100–120 km/h): often around 8.0–9.5 L/100 km (25–29 mpg US; 30–35 mpg UK).
- Mixed driving: typically lands near 10.5–12.0 L/100 km (19–22 mpg US; 23–26 mpg UK).
Cold weather, short trips, and underinflated tires can easily add 1–2 L/100 km to your average. If economy is far worse than these ranges, look for dragging brakes, tired oxygen sensors, misfires, or transmission slip.
CM6 against its peers
Cross-shopping a V6 Accord usually means you want effortless acceleration and comfortable road manners without stepping into a premium brand. The CM6 does that well, but the best choice depends on what you value most: low drama, lowest running cost, or the strongest straight-line performance.
Against Toyota Camry V6
A comparable Camry V6 often feels softer and quieter in a “floaty comfort” sense, while the Accord typically feels more tied down and responsive. The Camry’s ownership appeal is usually its calm temperament and strong reputation for low-stress maintenance, but equipment and driving feel can be less engaging. If you prioritize steering and chassis confidence, the Accord tends to win; if you prioritize maximum “appliance simplicity,” many buyers lean Camry—condition and service records should decide.
Against Nissan Altima 3.5
The Altima 3.5 often delivers more aggressive acceleration, but it can feel less refined and may carry different long-term risks depending on transmission type and service history. The Accord’s advantage is its smoother, more polished overall experience when healthy. If you want the sharpest “kick,” the Nissan can feel quicker; if you want consistent, mature behavior, the Honda is usually the safer bet.
Against Mazda6 V6 and Acura TL
A Mazda6 V6 can feel sportier in steering and chassis tuning, but parts availability and long-term cost depend on region. An Acura TL is the “step up” choice for features and power, but it can also bring higher repair costs and insurance. The CM6 sits in the middle: less flashy than the Acura, more comfort-focused than the Mazda, and often easier to live with day-to-day.
Why the CM6 still makes sense
Choose the CM6 V6 if you want:
- Smooth, naturally aspirated power without turbo complexity.
- A comfortable cabin and stable highway behavior for daily use.
- A platform with deep repair knowledge and predictable service routines.
Skip it (or negotiate hard) if the transmission feels questionable, timing belt history is missing, or cooling-system issues are present. In this class, condition beats brand—and on the V6 Accord, maintenance history is the condition.
References
- 2005 Accord Coupe Online Reference Owner’s Manual 2005 (Owner’s Manual)
- 2004 Honda Accord 4-door sedan 2004 (Safety Rating)
- Find and Compare Cars 2025 (Official MPG Database)
- Recalls 2025 (Recall Database)
Disclaimer
This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional inspection, diagnosis, or repair. Specifications, torque values, service intervals, and procedures vary by VIN, market, model year, and equipment; always verify details using official Honda service information and your vehicle’s owner documentation before performing work.
If this guide helped, please consider sharing it on Facebook, X (Twitter), or your favorite forum to support our work.