The Honda Accord Tourer (CW2) with the K24Z3 2.4 i-VTEC is the “driver’s choice” version of Honda’s practical estate from this era. You get a naturally aspirated engine that rewards clean maintenance and quality fuel, plus a chassis that was engineered to feel stable and predictable at speed—especially on longer European motorway runs. The big ownership appeal is balance: it’s roomy enough to work as a family wagon, but it still drives like a well-sorted sedan thanks to its suspension geometry and steering tuning.
If you’re shopping today, focus less on the badge and more on condition. A cared-for CW2 will feel tight and refined even at higher mileage; a neglected one will tell on itself through tired suspension joints, sticky brakes, and small electrical annoyances. This guide breaks down the specs, known weak points, and what to service first.
Top Highlights
- Strong, linear power delivery with a high-rev character that stays smooth when maintained well.
- Excellent long-trip stability and confident braking feel for a mid-size estate.
- Practical cargo bay shape with low load sill and useful rear-seat fold flexibility.
- Watch for age-related items (suspension bushings, brake caliper slide pins, tailgate wiring).
- Plan engine oil service every 10,000–15,000 km (6,000–9,000 mi) or 12 months, depending on use.
Contents and shortcuts
- CW2 Tourer ownership profile
- K24Z3 specs and dimensions
- Equipment, safety, and option packs
- Reliability issues and service actions
- Maintenance plan and buyer’s checklist
- Driving feel and real efficiency
- Rivals and value comparison
CW2 Tourer ownership profile
Think of the CW2 2.4 as a “mature performance wagon.” It is not a torque-heavy turbo estate, and it does not feel effortless at very low rpm the way a modern boosted engine does. Instead, it gives you clean throttle response, predictable traction (FWD), and a willingness to rev. In daily use that means two things: it’s easy to drive smoothly in town, and it feels especially composed on faster roads where the engine can sit in its sweet spot and the chassis settles down.
What owners usually notice first is refinement. Road noise is reasonable for the era, the body feels structurally solid, and the steering and suspension were tuned for stability rather than “nervous” quick turn-in. The Tourer body adds practicality without turning the car into a soft barge, partly because Honda kept the suspension layout sophisticated and the wheelbase long enough to calm the ride. The rear cargo area is also genuinely usable: the floor is relatively flat, the opening is wide, and it works well for strollers, luggage, or DIY runs.
Where the CW2 shows its age is in the details that depend on time more than mileage. Rubber bushings harden, brake caliper slide pins dry out, and door-lock and tailgate-related electrical items can become intermittent. None of these automatically make the car a bad buy; they simply mean that a “cheap” example can quickly become expensive if you need to do suspension refresh work plus tires plus brakes in one hit.
Who is it best for?
- Drivers who want a reliable, naturally aspirated petrol wagon and can accept a bit more fuel use than a modern turbo.
- People doing frequent highway trips who value straight-line stability and predictable braking.
- Buyers who prefer mechanical honesty (no turbocharger, no high-pressure DI fuel system on most variants) and are willing to keep up with fluids and wear items.
Who should think twice?
- Short-trip-only users in cold climates who rarely fully warm the engine (oil dilution and moisture build-up become bigger factors).
- Buyers expecting modern infotainment integration without upgrades.
- Anyone unwilling to budget for suspension and brake refreshing as the car ages.
K24Z3 specs and dimensions
Below are practical, commonly encountered specifications for the CW2 Accord Tourer 2.4 i-VTEC (K24Z3). Exact figures can vary by model year, market, transmission, and trim, so treat these as planning values and confirm by VIN and door-jamb plate where possible.
Engine and performance (ICE)
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Code | K24Z3 |
| Engine layout and cylinders | Inline-4, DOHC, 16-valve (4 valves/cyl), i-VTEC |
| Displacement | 2.4 L (2,354 cc) |
| Bore × stroke | 87.0 × 99.0 mm |
| Induction | Naturally aspirated |
| Fuel system | PGM-FI (port injection on most markets) |
| Compression ratio | ~10.5:1 (market dependent) |
| Max power | 201 hp (148 kW) @ ~7,000 rpm |
| Max torque | ~234 Nm (173 lb-ft) @ ~4,300 rpm |
| Timing drive | Chain |
| Emissions / standard | Euro-market variants typically Euro 4 / Euro 5 depending on year |
| Rated efficiency (combined) | Typically ~7.7–8.8 L/100 km (varies by transmission and market) |
| Real-world highway @ 120 km/h (75 mph) | Often ~8.5–9.5 L/100 km, depending on load, tires, and wind |
Transmission and driveline
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Drive type | FWD |
| Transmission | 6-speed manual (common) or 5-speed automatic (market/trim dependent) |
| Differential | Open (traction and stability managed by VSA/ABS systems) |
If you need exact gear ratios, confirm using the transmission code on the casing or in the build sheet. Ratios can vary between manual and automatic variants and across years.
Chassis and dimensions
| Item | Typical value (Tourer) |
|---|---|
| Suspension (front/rear) | Double wishbone / Multi-link (market dependent naming) |
| Steering | Electric power steering (EPS); rack-and-pinion |
| Brakes | 4-wheel discs (diameters vary by trim/wheel package) |
| Wheels/tyres | Common: 225/50 R17; sport packages often 225/45 R18 |
| Length / width / height | ~4,750 / 1,840 / 1,470 mm |
| Wheelbase | ~2,705 mm |
| Turning circle (kerb-to-kerb) | ~11.8 m (approx.) |
| Kerb weight | Often ~1,530–1,620 kg (varies by transmission/trim) |
| Fuel tank | ~65 L |
Cargo and practicality
| Item | Typical value |
|---|---|
| Cargo volume | Often quoted around ~400+ L seats up; ~1,200+ L seats down (method varies) |
| Roof load | Market dependent; confirm from owner documentation |
| Towing capacity | Market and hitch dependent; confirm by VIN plate and local regulations |
Fluids and service capacities (planning values)
| Item | Specification (typical) |
|---|---|
| Engine oil | 0W-20 or 5W-30 (market dependent spec); ~4.2 L with filter (approx.) |
| Coolant | Honda Type 2 long-life coolant; 50/50 mix where applicable |
| Transmission fluid (AT) | Use Honda-spec ATF only; capacity depends on drain/fill vs overhaul |
| A/C refrigerant | Type and charge depend on year/market; confirm under-hood label |
Key torque specs (common Honda planning values)
| Fastener | Typical torque |
|---|---|
| Wheel nuts | ~108 Nm (80 lb-ft) |
| Spark plugs | ~18 Nm (13 lb-ft) |
| Engine oil drain bolt | Often ~39 Nm (29 lb-ft) |
Always verify torque values and fluid specs for your exact VIN, especially if prior repairs changed parts (aftermarket wheels, different brake calipers, nonstandard plugs).
Equipment, safety, and option packs
CW2 Tourer trims vary a lot by country, but most markets follow a familiar pattern: a comfort-oriented base/mid grade, and a sportier grade (often identified by larger wheels, firmer suspension tuning, and sport seats). When shopping used, the easiest “quick identifiers” are wheel size, seat shape, and the presence of factory navigation and premium audio components.
Trims and options that matter mechanically
Look for options that change how the car drives or what it costs to recondition:
- Wheel and tire packages (17 vs 18 inch): 18-inch packages usually sharpen steering response but increase tire cost and can add road noise. They also make worn suspension bushings more noticeable.
- Transmission choice: the 6-speed manual is usually simpler long-term and gives the engine a more engaging feel; the 5-speed automatic suits relaxed driving but needs clean fluid and smooth shift behavior to be a safe buy.
- Brake package differences: some trims use larger front discs and different pads/calipers. When budgeting brakes, confirm disc diameter before ordering parts.
- Roof and cargo features: roof rails, cargo nets, split floor panels, and rear privacy glass sound minor, but they affect day-to-day usability and resale appeal.
Year-to-year changes to watch
Honda often made small “running changes” rather than dramatic redesigns. The most meaningful changes tend to be:
- Emissions and calibration updates: later years can have revised engine management calibrations and different emissions hardware depending on market rules.
- Infotainment revisions: navigation/audio generations can change compatibility with phones and replacement parts.
- Lighting and trim updates: facelift years may change headlight housings, bumper designs, and parking sensor availability.
Safety ratings and occupant protection
Safety equipment is generally strong for the era, with a rigid passenger cell, front and side airbags, and curtain airbags on most trims. Many cars also include:
- ABS and EBD (electronic brakeforce distribution)
- VSA (stability control) and traction control
- ISOFIX/LATCH rear child-seat anchor points (confirm placement and any top-tether provisions by market)
- Active head restraints on many variants to reduce whiplash risk
Driver-assistance tech is mostly “pre-ADAS” compared with modern systems. You may see parking sensors, cruise control, and sometimes lane-related warnings depending on region, but do not expect widespread factory AEB or radar cruise across the full 2008–2015 range.
If you’re comparing safety by year, remember that test protocols evolve. A car that scored very well in 2008-era testing can still be less protective than a newer design under modern small-overlap or updated pedestrian standards.
Reliability issues and service actions
The K24Z3 Accord Tourer has a strong reputation when serviced on time, but “reliable” does not mean “maintenance-free.” Below are the issues that tend to show up most often as these cars age, organized by prevalence and typical cost impact.
Common (usually low to medium cost)
- Brake caliper slide pin binding
- Symptoms: uneven pad wear, pulling under braking, hot wheel smell, poor fuel economy.
- Root cause: dried grease, torn boots, corrosion on pins/brackets.
- Remedy: clean and lubricate pins, replace boots/pins as needed, refresh pads/discs if heat-damaged.
- Front suspension bushings and ball joints wearing
- Symptoms: clunks over bumps, vague steering, inner tire wear, instability under braking.
- Remedy: inspect control-arm bushings, compliance bushings, and ball joints; align after any arm work.
- Door lock actuator or latch wear
- Symptoms: intermittent locking, one door not responding, re-locking behavior.
- Remedy: actuator replacement or latch service depending on failure mode.
- Tailgate wiring fatigue (Tourer-specific tendency)
- Symptoms: intermittent rear wiper, plate lights, tailgate release, or central locking at the tailgate.
- Remedy: inspect harness at hinge areas; repair breaks properly with strain relief.
Occasional (medium cost)
- Cold-start rattle from the VTC actuator (timing phaser) on some K-series engines
- Symptoms: brief rattle on cold start that disappears quickly; sometimes worse with thin or old oil.
- Root cause: wear in the actuator’s locking mechanism or oil control behavior.
- Remedy: confirm oil grade and change interval first; if persistent, diagnose per service manual procedures and replace actuator if indicated.
- A/C performance decline
- Symptoms: weak cooling, compressor cycling, leaks at condenser or lines.
- Remedy: leak test, condenser replacement if corroded/impacted; recharge to exact spec.
- Engine mount wear
- Symptoms: vibration at idle in gear (automatic), thump on takeoff, harsher NVH.
- Remedy: replace worn mounts; avoid cheap mounts that transmit vibration.
Rare (higher cost, usually preventable)
- Overheated engine from neglected cooling system
- Symptoms: rising temperature, coolant loss, heater performance changes.
- Root cause: aged coolant hoses, radiator end-tank aging, ignored leaks.
- Remedy: fix leaks early; use the correct long-life coolant; pressure test before buying.
- Automatic transmission shift quality issues from neglected fluid
- Symptoms: flare, harsh shifts, hesitation, shudder on light throttle.
- Remedy: confirm correct Honda ATF, perform staged drain-and-fill if appropriate (not a power flush unless the unit is healthy and the procedure is approved locally).
Recalls, TSBs, and verification habits
On a car of this era, recall history matters as much as mileage. Across the industry, airbag inflator campaigns affected many manufacturers and model lines, and owners sometimes miss follow-up visits after changing addresses.
Best practice:
- Run an official VIN check in your region and save the result.
- Ask the seller for invoices showing recall completion.
- If records are unclear, assume you will spend time at a dealer to confirm status.
Maintenance plan and buyer’s checklist
A good CW2 ownership experience comes down to two things: frequent fluid care and proactive inspection of wear items. The engine itself is usually forgiving, but neglected oil and cooling maintenance can turn a solid car into a problem car.
Practical maintenance schedule (distance or time, whichever comes first)
- Engine oil and filter: every 10,000–15,000 km (6,000–9,000 mi) or 12 months
- Short trips, cold weather, and heavy city use: prefer the shorter end.
- Air filter (engine): inspect every oil service; replace about every 30,000 km (18,000 mi) or as needed.
- Cabin filter: every 15,000–30,000 km (9,000–18,000 mi) depending on dust and allergies.
- Coolant: commonly 5 years initial, then every 3 years (verify per market manual and coolant type).
- Brake fluid: every 2 years, regardless of mileage.
- Spark plugs (iridium): often 100,000–120,000 km (60,000–75,000 mi); confirm plug type fitted.
- Serpentine belt and pulleys: inspect every service; typically replace around 100,000–160,000 km depending on noise and cracking.
- Valve clearance check: some K-series service schedules include an inspection interval (often around 100,000 km). If idle quality changes, check sooner.
- Automatic transmission fluid (if equipped): drain-and-fill intervals vary; a safe planning interval is 40,000–60,000 km (25,000–37,000 mi) with the correct Honda fluid.
- Manual transmission fluid (if equipped): commonly 60,000–100,000 km depending on shifting feel and use.
- Brakes: inspect pads/rotors at every tire rotation; clean and lubricate slide pins at least annually in salted climates.
- Tires: rotate every 10,000–12,000 km; align annually or after suspension work.
- 12 V battery: test annually; many last 4–6 years depending on climate and usage.
Fluids and specs (decision-making level)
- Use the correct oil grade for your climate and the exact service spec recommended in your market documentation. If you are unsure, prioritize the manufacturer spec rather than internet consensus.
- Use Honda-spec fluids for automatic transmissions. Mixing “universal ATF” is a common cause of drivability complaints.
- Use the specified long-life coolant and avoid topping off with incompatible types.
Buyer’s checklist (what to inspect before purchase)
Body and structure:
- Check rear arches, underbody seams, and subframe areas for corrosion (especially if the car lived in road-salt regions).
- Inspect tailgate area for signs of water ingress: damp spare-wheel well, musty smell, stained trim.
Engine bay:
- Cold start listen: any persistent rattle, misfire, or belt squeal.
- Check coolant level and condition (no oily film, no rust sludge).
- Look for oil seepage around the timing cover area and valve cover.
Driveline:
- Manual: clutch engagement point, slip under load, smooth synchros on 2nd and 3rd.
- Automatic: smooth take-up, no harsh 2–3 shifts, no flare, no delayed engagement.
Chassis:
- Test drive over sharp bumps: listen for front-end knocks (bushings/ball joints).
- Brake test: no vibration, no pull, and no overheating smell after a few stops.
Electronics:
- Verify all windows, mirrors, locks, HVAC modes, and rear wiper.
- Confirm parking sensors and any camera function if equipped.
A well-bought CW2 often needs a “baseline service” after purchase: fresh oil, brake fluid, filters, and a careful inspection. Budgeting for that upfront usually prevents the first-year surprise costs.
Driving feel and real efficiency
The K24Z3’s personality is the reason many people choose this car over a diesel or a smaller turbo petrol. Power delivery is linear and predictable. Around town, it behaves politely with smooth throttle response, but the engine feels most alive from the midrange up to the higher rpm band where it pulls with real intent. If you enjoy a naturally aspirated feel—where acceleration builds with rpm rather than arriving in a single turbo surge—this drivetrain is genuinely satisfying.
Ride, handling, and NVH
- Ride quality: tuned for control rather than softness. The Tourer’s longer body does not feel floppy, and the suspension absorbs motorway undulations well.
- Handling balance: secure and neutral for a FWD estate. It won’t rotate like a hot hatch, but it also doesn’t feel clumsy.
- Steering: typically light-to-medium effort with good on-center stability, which is exactly what you want for long-distance driving.
- Cabin noise: tire noise depends heavily on tire brand and wheel size; 18-inch setups can add a noticeable hum on coarse asphalt.
Powertrain character and transmission behavior
- Manual: usually the best match for the K24Z3’s rev-happy nature. Passing power feels strong when you downshift and use the upper rev range.
- Automatic: smooth for commuting, but it’s an older-style 5-speed. Expect downshifts on hills and more rpm at highway speeds than modern 8–10 speed units.
Real-world fuel use
Real-world consumption varies massively by driving style because the engine rewards revs—and revs cost fuel.
Typical owner-reported patterns (planning ranges):
- City: ~10–12+ L/100 km depending on traffic and warm-up time.
- Highway (100–120 km/h): ~8.5–9.5 L/100 km in many conditions.
- Mixed: often ~9–10.5 L/100 km.
Cold weather and short trips can push numbers higher because the engine spends more time warming up and the cabin heater demand rises. Tire choice also matters: low-grip or underinflated tires increase rolling resistance and make the car feel “heavier.”
Performance metrics that change expectations
Depending on transmission and trim, you can expect:
- 0–100 km/h (0–62 mph): roughly high-8s to low-9s seconds.
- Overtaking: strong when downshifted; the engine likes to work.
- Braking feel: generally confident, but only if the calipers slide freely and the tires are decent.
If the car you test-drive feels slow or coarse, suspect maintenance first: tired plugs, clogged filters, dragging brakes, poor tires, or a transmission that is not operating as designed.
Rivals and value comparison
The CW2 2.4 sits in a competitive mid-size estate class where rivals often win on paper (fuel economy, infotainment, newer gearboxes) but do not always match the Honda’s long-term mechanical honesty.
Versus Volkswagen Passat Variant (petrol)
- Passat strengths: often better low-rpm torque (especially turbo petrols), more modern cabin tech in later years, lots of parts availability.
- Honda strengths: simpler naturally aspirated engine behavior, typically less complexity in intake/turbo hardware, and a chassis that feels “engineered” rather than merely comfortable.
- Buying tip: choose the Honda if you want a straightforward petrol wagon; choose the VW if you prioritize torque and newer features and can handle higher system complexity.
Versus Ford Mondeo Estate
- Mondeo strengths: great ride/handling balance, often cheaper purchase price, broad engine range.
- Honda strengths: K24-style durability when serviced well, strong high-speed stability, and a premium-feeling drivetrain in manual form.
- Buying tip: Mondeos can be excellent, but condition varies widely; the Honda often feels tighter at similar mileage when cared for.
Versus Mazda6 Wagon
- Mazda strengths: lighter feel, efficient later petrol engines, responsive steering.
- Honda strengths: a more “grown-up” long-distance character and an engine that remains smooth when run hard.
- Buying tip: choose Mazda for agility and newer tech (depending on year), Honda for motorway composure and a robust NA petrol experience.
Versus Toyota Avensis Tourer
- Toyota strengths: reputation for low fuss and strong ownership satisfaction, especially with conservative maintenance.
- Honda strengths: more engaging powertrain character in 2.4 form and a more planted, confident feel at speed.
- Buying tip: Avensis is the calm appliance choice; CW2 2.4 is the practical driver’s choice.
Overall value verdict
If you want a used estate that still feels solid and well-damped, the Accord Tourer CW2 2.4 is a strong pick—provided you buy on condition. The best examples usually share the same story: regular oil service, brake maintenance, quality tires, and suspension repairs done before the car became noisy. Avoid the cheapest cars with vague steering, uneven braking, and missing history. In this model line, it is often cheaper to buy the best car you can find than to “fix your way into” a good one.
References
- SaferCar App: Vehicle Safety Recalls App 2025 (Recall Database)
- Euro NCAP | Ratings & Rewards 2025 (Safety Rating)
- Check if a vehicle has a safety recall 2025 (Recall Database)
- How can I obtain an owner’s manual for my Honda automobile? 2025 (Owner’s Manual)
Disclaimer
This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional inspection, diagnosis, or repair. Specifications, torque values, fluid capacities, service intervals, and procedures vary by VIN, market, model year, and installed equipment. Always verify details using the official owner’s manual and service documentation for your vehicle.
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