The Ferrari Dino 246 GTS is the open-roof version of one of Ferrari’s most admired early mid-engine road cars. Built from 1972 to 1974, it combined the Dino 246 GT’s compact V6 layout with a removable roof panel, giving the car a more open, sensory character without turning it into a soft convertible. In U.S.-specification form, the 2.4-liter Tipo 135 CS V6 is commonly listed at 175 hp, while European references often quote 195 PS or 192 bhp.
Quick Take
The Dino 246 GTS is valuable because it delivers beauty, sound, balance, and Ferrari history in a package that feels more intimate than many larger V12 models. It is not the fastest classic Ferrari, and it demands specialist care, but a correct, well-documented GTS is one of the most desirable 1970s Italian sports cars. The best cars are bought on originality, chassis integrity, documentation, restoration quality, and correct U.S.- or European-market specification—not simply paint color or mileage.
Table of Contents
- Why the Dino 246 GTS Matters
- Tipo 135 CS Engine and Core Specs
- Production Series, Options, and Authenticity
- Pininfarina Shape and Mid-Engine Layout
- Road Feel, Sound, and Real Performance
- Maintenance, Restoration, and Known Risks
- Values, Inspection, and Buying Advice
Why the Dino 246 GTS Matters
The Dino 246 GTS matters because it helped prove that a smaller, mid-engine Ferrari-related sports car could be more than an entry model. It gave buyers a lighter, more agile alternative to the larger front-engine V12 Ferraris while keeping the styling, sound, and mechanical drama that made Maranello cars special.
The Dino name honored Alfredo “Dino” Ferrari, Enzo Ferrari’s son, who was closely associated with Ferrari’s V6 engine development before his death in 1956. For years, the Dino badge also allowed Ferrari to sell smaller-displacement cars without placing the traditional Ferrari script on the nose. That branding detail once made some buyers question whether the Dino was a “real” Ferrari. Today, the market has largely moved past that argument. The car is accepted as one of the most important road models connected to Ferrari’s shift toward mid-engine production sports cars.
The 246 GTS arrived after the 246 GT coupe and was built during the E-series period. Its removable roof panel changed the car’s character. The coupe is slightly purer in line, but the GTS gives the driver more sound, more light, and more occasion. That matters because the Dino’s appeal has always been emotional as much as technical. It is a car about balance, delicacy, and the sound of a small high-revving V6 close behind the cabin.
The Dino also sits in an important historical position. Ferrari’s racing cars had used mid-engine layouts before, but the Dino line helped make the idea acceptable for road customers. The 206 GT introduced the concept in a lighter, smaller form. The 246 enlarged the formula with a 2.4-liter engine, a longer wheelbase, and steel body construction that made production more practical. The later 308 GTB and GTS would carry the mid-engine road-car idea into a wider Ferrari audience.
For collectors, the GTS is especially appealing because production was far lower than many later Ferrari open models. It also has a strong visual identity: curved Pininfarina lines, recessed headlights under clear covers on many markets, rounded haunches, compact proportions, and the distinctive black roof panel when fitted. A correct GTS does not need aggressive spoilers or excessive power to feel special.
The car’s reputation today rests on five main qualities:
- It is one of the best-looking 1970s Italian sports cars.
- It represents Ferrari’s early mid-engine road-car development.
- It has a sonorous, characterful V6 rather than a large V12.
- It is rare enough to be collectible but well-known enough to have strong specialist support.
- It rewards originality and documentation, which makes it attractive to serious collectors.
The GTS is not a casual classic. Even good examples require informed ownership. Rust, past accident repairs, incorrect restorations, missing emissions equipment on U.S. cars, tired suspension, and non-original engines can all affect value sharply. But when the car is correct and properly sorted, it offers a mix of beauty, size, sound, and road feel that few classic Ferraris can match.
Tipo 135 CS Engine and Core Specs
The U.S.-spec Ferrari Dino 246 GTS covered here uses a 2.4-liter 65-degree V6, commonly identified with the Tipo 135 CS engine family and listed at 175 hp in U.S. trim. The broader 246 platform is often quoted at 195 PS or 192 bhp in European form, so buyers should always confirm whether the car is U.S.-spec, European-spec, or modified.
The Dino engine is compact, high-revving, and mounted transversely behind the cabin. It uses dual overhead camshafts, two valves per cylinder, triple Weber carburetors, and a five-speed manual transaxle. The layout gives the car much of its personality. The engine is not huge, but it responds eagerly and sounds more exotic than its displacement suggests.
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Model years covered | 1972–1974 |
| Body style | Two-seat targa-style berlinetta with removable roof panel |
| Series | Tipo 607 E / E-series Dino 246 GTS |
| Engine | 2.4-liter 65-degree V6 |
| Engine code reference | Tipo 135 CS family, U.S.-spec examples commonly recorded with 135 CS engine stamping |
| Displacement | 2,419 cc, often rounded to 2.4 liters |
| Bore x stroke | 92.5 mm x 60 mm |
| Induction | Three Weber twin-choke carburetors |
| U.S.-spec output | 175 hp at 7,600 rpm |
| European reference output | 195 PS / 192 bhp at 7,600 rpm |
| Transmission | Five-speed manual transaxle |
| Drive | Rear-wheel drive |
The U.S.-spec power figure reflects emissions-era equipment and tuning. That does not make the car less desirable by default. Many U.S.-delivered GTS examples are highly collectible, especially when their emissions equipment, side markers, documentation, and factory identity remain intact. The key is accuracy. A U.S. car presented as a European car, or a converted car without clear documentation, deserves closer inspection.
The chassis uses a tubular steel frame with steel body panels. Compared with the earlier Dino 206 GT, the 246 is heavier but stronger and easier to build in higher numbers. The wheelbase is longer, which improves stability and cabin packaging. The GTS roof opening adds some complexity, so careful inspection around the roof structure and seals is important.
| Area | Detail |
|---|---|
| Frame | Tubular steel chassis |
| Body construction | Primarily steel bodywork by Scaglietti, with hand-finished variation between cars |
| Wheelbase | 2,340 mm |
| Length | About 4,235 mm |
| Width | About 1,700 mm |
| Front suspension | Independent double wishbones, coil springs, telescopic dampers, anti-roll bar |
| Rear suspension | Independent double wishbones, coil springs, telescopic dampers, anti-roll bar |
| Steering | Rack and pinion, unassisted |
| Brakes | Four-wheel hydraulic disc brakes, servo-assisted |
| Standard tire size | 205/70 VR 14 on most standard cars |
| Top speed reference | About 235 km/h / 146 mph in period manufacturer-style data |
The headline numbers do not tell the whole story. A Dino GTS is not about brute acceleration. Its appeal comes from the way the engine, steering, gearbox, seating position, and compact footprint work together. A healthy car feels alert and mechanical. A tired one can feel vague, hot, noisy in the wrong ways, and expensive from the first mile.
Production Series, Options, and Authenticity
The Dino 246 GTS was produced from 1972 to 1974, with 1,274 GTS examples commonly cited. Because values are high, small differences in market, series details, factory equipment, and documentation can have a large effect on desirability.
The 246 line evolved through L, M, and E series forms, but the GTS belongs to the later E-series period. That matters because E-series cars are the ones most associated with U.S. sales, the removable roof body style, five-bolt wheels, and later production details. The E-series cars are not simply “late cars” in a negative sense. They are the production form in which the GTS became available, and many buyers prefer them for usability and parts familiarity.
For identification, the first priority is to match the car’s story to the physical evidence. A correct inspection should review chassis number, engine number, gearbox number, body number where visible, market equipment, color records, interior trim, books, tools, service history, and any Ferrari Classiche documentation. “Matching numbers” is valuable, but it should be treated as a claim to verify, not a phrase to accept.
Important authenticity points include:
- Whether the car was built for the U.S., Europe, the U.K., or another market.
- Whether the engine, gearbox, and body numbers correspond to the car’s identity.
- Whether the original color and trim are known and documented.
- Whether U.S.-market equipment has been removed, restored, or recreated.
- Whether bodywork changes such as flared arches are factory-original or later additions.
- Whether Daytona-style seats were factory-fitted or added during restoration.
- Whether air conditioning and power windows were factory equipment or later changes.
The most famous option combination is often called “Chairs and Flares.” This usually refers to Daytona-style seat inserts and wider flared wheel arches, often paired with wider Campagnolo wheels. Genuine factory “Chairs and Flares” GTS cars are especially desirable. However, the phrase is also overused. Some cars have factory seats but later flares, factory flares but later seats, or both added during restoration. Documentation matters more than the nickname.
Factory and period options could include:
- Air conditioning
- Power windows
- Daytona-style seat inserts
- Cromodora or Campagnolo alloy wheels, depending on specification
- Market-specific lights and reflectors
- Leather or vinyl interior trim depending on market and order
- Special-order paint or trim combinations
U.S.-spec cars are easy to mishandle during restoration. Side marker lights, emissions equipment, bumper details, carburetor specification, and lighting can be changed to make the car look more “European.” That may please some owners visually, but it can create value questions if the original components and documentation are gone. A sympathetic restoration that preserves the car’s delivery identity is usually safer than a cosmetic conversion without records.
Color also matters, but not as much as condition and correctness. Red over tan is always easy to understand in the market, but Dino colors such as Giallo, Verde, Blu, Argento, Marrone, and period metallics can be highly attractive when documented. A rare original color can add interest. A color change can be acceptable if the work is excellent, but it usually ranks below a car still in its factory color or returned accurately to it.
The best Dino GTS file usually includes:
- Old registrations and ownership history
- A factory build record or recognized historical report
- Ferrari Classiche Red Book, where applicable
- Restoration invoices with photographs
- Engine and gearbox rebuild records
- Carburetor, ignition, brake, cooling, and suspension service records
- Original books, pouch, jack, tools, and emergency equipment
- Clear explanation of any changes from factory specification
For buyers, the safest mindset is simple: every Dino is individual. Hand-built variation, decades of repairs, market conversions, and restorations mean two similar-looking red GTS cars can be very different underneath.
Pininfarina Shape and Mid-Engine Layout
The Dino 246 GTS is visually special because its design makes the mid-engine layout look elegant rather than aggressive. Pininfarina’s shape is low, rounded, and balanced, with enough intake and cooling detail to feel purposeful without turning the car into a race-style caricature.
The design is often associated with Aldo Brovarone and Leonardo Fioravanti at Pininfarina, with bodies built by Scaglietti. The car’s proportions are the key. The cabin sits forward, the rear haunches swell gently over the engine bay, and the nose stays low because there is no large front-mounted engine to cover. The removable roof panel changes the side profile, but the GTS remains cohesive because the buttresses and rear deck are so carefully shaped.
The GTS is not a convertible in the traditional sense. It uses a removable roof panel that stores separately, leaving the side and rear structure largely intact. That gives the car a more open feeling while preserving the basic shape and much of the coupe’s character. The roof panel itself must fit well. Poor roof fit, wind noise, water leaks, damaged latches, or missing seals can point to age, poor restoration, or past body movement.
The body has many small details that matter during inspection. Door gaps, headlight cover fit, engine lid alignment, roof-panel seating, lower sill shape, front lower valance condition, and rear wheel-arch form all tell a story. A Dino restored only for shine can look stunning in photographs and still have incorrect contours. A proper restoration preserves the soft transitions and delicate panel shapes rather than over-sharpening edges or burying detail under thick paint.
The mid-engine layout also shapes how the car works. The engine sits transversely behind the driver and passenger, close enough to dominate the soundtrack. Cooling air, engine-bay heat, carburetor behavior, and exhaust routing all affect the driving experience. Owners should expect heat management to be part of the car’s character, especially in warm climates or slow traffic.
Inside, the Dino feels compact but not crude. The driving position is low, the dashboard is simple, and the main instruments are clear. The cabin is not luxurious by modern standards, but the details matter: seat trim, switchgear, carpets, steering wheel, gauges, dash material, and the finish of the gated shifter all contribute to value. Poorly retrimmed interiors can look too new, too thick, or simply unlike the original.
The GTS gives a special sensory experience because removing the roof lets in more intake and exhaust sound. The V6 note is sharper and more complex than many larger engines. It does not rumble like a V8 or thunder like a V12. It sings, hardens, and becomes more urgent as the revs rise. That sound is central to why the car remains so loved.
Engineering-wise, the Dino’s important choices were not exotic for show. They were practical solutions for compact performance:
- Transverse engine placement kept the package short.
- A five-speed transaxle helped make the most of the small V6.
- Independent suspension gave the car balance and grip.
- Rack-and-pinion steering made it feel direct.
- Disc brakes all round matched the car’s light, agile character.
- The removable roof gave open-air appeal without a full convertible structure.
The result is a car that feels designed as a whole. The engine size, chassis, steering, brakes, and body shape suit one another. That coherence is a major reason the Dino has aged better than many faster cars.
Road Feel, Sound, and Real Performance
A good Dino 246 GTS feels light, alert, and musical rather than brutally fast. Its performance is strong by early-1970s standards, but the real pleasure comes from steering feel, engine response, mechanical controls, and the way the car carries speed through corners.
The U.S.-spec 175 hp figure can look modest today. Even many modern hot hatchbacks make more power. But the Dino is small, low, and engaging. It does not need extreme speed to feel alive. The engine sits close to the cabin, the throttle response is crisp when the carburetors are correctly set, and the five-speed gearbox makes the driver part of the process.
The engine likes to be warm before being judged. Cold carbureted Dinos can stumble, smell rich, or feel reluctant if treated like a modern fuel-injected car. Once oil and coolant temperatures are stable, a healthy V6 pulls cleanly and rewards revs. The sound becomes sharper as the tachometer rises, and the car feels happiest when driven with rhythm rather than brute force.
The gearbox is part of the charm but also a useful health indicator. When cold, second gear can need patience, as with many classic Italian transaxles. Once warm, shifts should become more cooperative. A gearbox that crunches badly, jumps out of gear, whines heavily, or resists selection after warm-up needs specialist attention. Clutch action should be firm but not unreasonable.
The steering is one of the car’s strongest qualities. There is no modern electric filter, so the front tires communicate clearly through the wheel. At parking speeds it takes effort. On the move it becomes delicate and accurate. A car with heavy, sticky, or vague steering may have old tires, poor alignment, worn suspension joints, incorrect ride height, or accident-related geometry issues.
Ride quality is better than many expect. The Dino is sporty but not punishing when properly set up. The suspension should feel supple, controlled, and tied down. Harshness may come from incorrect dampers, old bushings, overinflated tires, modern tire choices that do not suit the chassis, or poor restoration setup.
Braking expectations must be period-correct. The four-wheel disc system is capable, but it does not feel like a modern carbon-ceramic setup. Pedal feel should be progressive, and the car should stop straight. Pulling, pulsing, long pedal travel, sticking calipers, or servo problems should be investigated immediately. On a car of this value, brake work should not be deferred.
The GTS roof changes the driving experience. With the roof in place, the cabin feels more closed and slightly more coupe-like. With it removed, the car feels more dramatic. There is more wind, more sound, and more sense of speed. Roof-off driving also exposes weaknesses: rattles, poor seals, loose trim, and body flex become easier to notice.
In city use, the Dino needs patience. The cooling system must be healthy, the fans must work, carburetors must be correctly tuned, and the driver must accept heat and noise as part of the experience. In mountain-road use, the car makes far more sense. It is narrow enough for real roads, communicative enough to place accurately, and powerful enough to be exciting without demanding reckless speed.
Track use is possible but not really the point for most owners. The car is too valuable and too old to treat casually. If used on track, it needs fresh fluids, excellent tires, careful brake inspection, and a driver who respects oil temperature, coolant temperature, and period limits. Many owners will enjoy the car more on early-morning roads than on a circuit.
A properly sorted Dino GTS should feel:
- Responsive after warm-up
- Stable at speed
- Light and accurate through bends
- Mechanical but not crude
- Noisy in a pleasing way, not a broken way
- Warm in the cabin, but not overheating
- More about flow than straight-line force
A tired Dino can still look beautiful, but the drive will reveal it quickly. Poor carburetion, weak ignition, worn bushings, old tires, dragging brakes, bad alignment, and tired engine mounts can turn a great car into a disappointing one.
Maintenance, Restoration, and Known Risks
The Dino 246 GTS is not unreliable when properly maintained, but it is a specialist classic Ferrari with age-sensitive systems and expensive restoration risk. The biggest ownership mistake is buying a shiny car without understanding the chassis, corrosion, engine, gearbox, and documentation.
The engine itself is robust when cared for, but it must be set up by people who understand carbureted Ferrari V6s. Carburetor synchronization, ignition condition, timing, fuel pressure, cooling, and valve adjustment all affect how the car starts, idles, pulls, and stays cool. Many poor-running Dinos suffer from accumulated small faults rather than one dramatic failure.
Fuel system condition is critical. Old hoses, debris in tanks, weak pumps, incorrect filters, stale fuel varnish, and carburetor wear can all create drivability and fire risks. Any newly purchased Dino should have its fuel hoses and clamps inspected unless there is recent proof of proper renewal.
Cooling is another major area. The engine is behind the cabin, while the radiator is at the front, so long coolant pipes and proper airflow matter. Overheating can come from blocked radiators, old hoses, weak fans, bad thermostats, air trapped in the system, corroded pipes, incorrect coolant, or poor engine tune. Repeated overheating is never normal and should not be dismissed as “Italian character.”
Corrosion is one of the biggest buying risks. The Dino’s value has encouraged restorations of cars that once would have been considered marginal. Rust repair quality varies widely. Important areas include:
- Sills and rocker structures
- Lower doors and door bottoms
- Wheel arches and inner arches
- Front lower valance and nose structure
- Floor sections
- Suspension pickup areas
- Battery area
- Engine bay seams and lower panels
- Roof aperture and GTS-specific sealing areas
Accident damage can be just as serious as rust. Mid-engine cars can hide poor repairs under paint, underseal, and trim. Uneven panel gaps, incorrect wheelbase measurements, strange alignment settings, unusual tire wear, and poor engine-lid fit can all point to deeper problems. A proper inspection should include underside access, paint-depth readings, panel contour review, and ideally a specialist who knows Dino chassis details.
The gearbox and transaxle deserve careful attention. Synchro wear, bearing noise, oil leaks, and poor shift quality can be expensive to correct. Clutch replacement is not the same as on a common modern car, and any drivetrain work should be done by a specialist familiar with the model.
Suspension condition heavily affects how the car feels. Old bushings, worn ball joints, tired dampers, sagging springs, incorrect ride height, and poor alignment can make the Dino feel nervous or dull. Because the chassis is so communicative when healthy, suspension neglect is easy to feel on a road test.
Electrical issues are common on many older Italian cars, and the Dino is no exception. Grounds, fuse boxes, connectors, switches, gauges, cooling fans, lights, ignition components, and old wiring repairs all need inspection. A car with beautiful paint but messy wiring can become frustrating quickly.
Restoration quality matters more than restoration freshness. A recently restored Dino is not automatically a better car. Look for photographs of bare-metal work, invoices from known specialists, correct parts sourcing, careful panel fit, accurate interior materials, and mechanical commissioning miles after completion. Cars that have just emerged from restoration can still need sorting.
Originality versus upgrades is a personal decision, but the market usually rewards correct cars. Sensible hidden improvements, such as better cooling fans, improved ignition reliability, or carefully chosen fuel-line materials, can be acceptable when reversible. Obvious modern modifications, non-original interiors, engine swaps, incorrect wheels, or poorly executed Euro-style conversions can reduce collector confidence.
Before buying, confirm these maintenance areas:
- Recent engine service and valve adjustment history
- Carburetor rebuild or tuning records
- Ignition system condition
- Cooling system renewal
- Fuel hose and pump condition
- Brake caliper, hose, master cylinder, and servo condition
- Clutch and gearbox operation
- Suspension bushings, dampers, and alignment
- Tire age, not just tread depth
- Battery, charging system, and wiring condition
- Roof seals, latches, and water management
- Documentation for any restoration or major repair
The best owners treat the Dino as a valuable mechanical object, not a museum piece that can be ignored. Regular use, proper warm-up, fresh fluids, and specialist attention are usually better than long storage followed by occasional hard driving.
Values, Inspection, and Buying Advice
The Dino 246 GTS sits in a strong collector market, with the best examples now priced like serious blue-chip classics. As of 2026, public market tracking shows median sold prices around the high-six-figure level in pounds for GTS examples, while exceptional cars with rare specification, provenance, and superb condition can reach much higher.
The GTS usually commands more than the GT coupe because of lower production, open-roof appeal, and collector demand. However, condition and authenticity can outweigh body style. A superb GT can be a better buy than a mediocre GTS. Within the GTS market, genuine “Chairs and Flares” cars, highly original cars, low-mileage documented cars, and examples in rare factory colors can bring premiums.
Value drivers include:
| Factor | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Original engine and gearbox | Matching-number claims strongly affect collector confidence and price. |
| Factory color and trim | Original or accurately restored color combinations are easier to defend long term. |
| Market specification | U.S., European, and right-hand-drive cars have different details and buyer pools. |
| Rust and chassis integrity | Structural corrosion or poor repair can erase any apparent bargain. |
| Restoration quality | Correct metalwork, panel shape, trim, and mechanical sorting matter more than shine. |
| Factory options | Documented Daytona seats, flares, air conditioning, and power windows can add appeal. |
| Documentation | Books, tools, historical reports, invoices, and Classiche documents reduce uncertainty. |
| Provenance | Long ownership, known specialists, and clear history make a car easier to buy and sell. |
A practical buying range depends heavily on currency, location, taxes, and sale venue. In broad terms, driver-quality GTS examples with needs may sit well below top-tier cars, while excellent documented cars often occupy the middle-to-upper market. Exceptional examples with rare factory specification, outstanding originality, or major concours-level restoration can reach into seven-figure territory in U.S. dollars.
Do not shop only by asking price. A cheaper Dino with corrosion, missing parts, incorrect engine, or poor restoration can become more expensive than buying a better car first. Parts, labor, and specialist time are too costly for bargain hunting to work the way it might with a normal classic.
A serious pre-purchase inspection should include:
- Confirm identity numbers against documentation.
- Inspect the chassis and body underside on a lift.
- Check corrosion-prone areas with a Dino specialist.
- Review panel fit, roof fit, and evidence of accident repair.
- Test compression and leak-down if the seller allows.
- Road test from cold through full operating temperature.
- Check gearbox behavior cold and warm.
- Inspect brakes, suspension, steering, tires, and wheels.
- Review all invoices, restoration photographs, books, tools, and ownership history.
- Compare the car’s market specification to its current appearance.
Cars to seek include well-documented examples with long ownership, known specialist care, correct market equipment, original or carefully restored colors, and no vague history gaps. Cars to approach carefully include fresh restorations with no photo record, cars with “lost” emissions parts, unclear engine-number claims, heavy undercoating, poor roof fit, and sellers who discourage specialist inspection.
The GTS is likely to remain collectible because it has the right mix of beauty, rarity, usability, and historical importance. It is also less intimidating to drive than many larger classic Ferraris. That does not make it inexpensive to own, but it does make it emotionally rewarding when bought well.
For an enthusiast, the best Dino GTS is the one that can be driven without fear and preserved without guilt. For an investor, the best car is usually the most correct, best documented, and easiest to explain. For many buyers, the ideal example sits between those two: mechanically sorted, visually honest, properly documented, and still enjoyable on the road.
References
- Ferrari Dino 246 GTS (1972) – Ferrari.com 1972 (Manufacturer Specifications)
- Ferrari Dino 246 GT (1969) – Ferrari.com 1969 (Manufacturer Specifications)
- 1974 Ferrari Dino 246 GTS 2025 (Auction Specification)
- 1972 Ferrari Dino 246 GTS | Arizona 2014 2014 (Auction Specification)
- Price Guide: Ferrari Dino 246 GTS [UPDATED 2026] 2026 (Market Data)
Disclaimer
This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, repair, appraisal, or pre-purchase inspection. Specifications, torque values, service intervals, procedures, market equipment, and correct parts can vary by VIN, market, production date, and individual vehicle history. Always verify details against official service documentation and consult a qualified Ferrari Dino specialist before buying, repairing, restoring, or valuing a car.
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